Posts
There I was, minding my own business, about to enjoy a delicious and inexpensive Thai dinner at Setsara, on st 278. I was reading my book, waiting for the waiter, when suddenly, darkness. I look around, expecting panic to ensue. Would women be running in the streets? Would children begin to cry? Would wild men attack?? I turn and look out of the window. Well, not so much a window as between the bamboo frame. Nothing. No one seems to have noticed that all of the lights in the streets have gone out. Everyone is sitting there just as they were before, expats downing their red curry, moto drivers pleading for customers, security guards playing hacky-sack. As a girl places candles on the table, the waiter comes to take my order (they have gas stoves so nothing gums up the works). I ask him what happened. "The lights went out." Gee. Thanks.
"Yes, but why?" I respond.
He looks at me quizzically. "I don't know. They just did."
I ask him why some of the shops still have their lights on. Apparently they have generators.
Unable to solve the mystery, I order and enjoy my food in the darkness, holding my book close enough to the flame to set it on fire. Finished, I retreat to the guesthouse.
I am relieved to see that the lights are on. I go to my room, turn on the fans, open my computer, and start watching The Pink Panther Strikes Again. Darkness. This is getting ridiculous.
I walk downstairs, using the flashlight on my new cell phone.
"What happened?"
"The lights went out."
Clearly, I need to revise my line of questioning.
"Does this happen often?"
"Yes, but no worry. This is a main road, the lights will be back on soon."
And just like that, they are.
The next day at work I find out what happened. Rolling blackouts. Apparently, the people in Phnom Penh are using more energy than the city can sustain. I'm lucky to live in the wealthy area. In other parts of town, the lights go out often and stay out for hours. My supervisor doesn't leave yogurt in the refrigerator.
Remember California in 2000? I think Enron is in Cambodia.
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Thursday, May 28, 2009
My first week at work
Sorry for not writing but this week has been exhausting! It's difficult to get back into the 9-5 (actually, the 7:30-5:30) grind after a whole school year of mid-morning, mid-afternoon, and evening naps, but back in the grind I am and loving every minute of it. I have wanted to work for UNICEF for as long as I can remember and this internship is already off to an amazing start. Everyone here is doing something incredible, and for the first time in my life I am in an office full of people that I want to emulate someday. The juvenile justice section of child protection (where I'm working) is amazing. They're doing a lot of work to help the Cambodian government keep kids out of jail, get fair and adequate legal services once they are in the system, and ensure humane treatment if they are incarcerated. It is stunning to see exactly how much work there is to do in this country and how effective UNICEF is. One thing is for sure, if you're interested in any kind of public service work at all, Cambodia has something for everyone.The people in my office are fantastic. My supervisor is from the Philippines, there are about 7 Cambodians, a woman from Ireland, one from Australia, and two other Americans. Also, there are two people who went to Michigan, including the woman who is the head of the division!! Yaay!! I have also made a friend in a Cambodian girl named Kimsray who is an administrative assistant intern. She's awesome. She's from the provinces and has a pretty amazing story. I'm sure I'll be talking a lot more about her in the future, especially since we have weekend plans.
I also have to say that I had my security training on Wednesday and the UN security infrastructure is absolutely phenomenal. I never though about it before but once I did it seemed obvious that the UN would have to have extensive plans and resources available for their staff, considering where in the world they are sending them. Also, Mom, you'll be glad to know that Cambodia has been deemed completely safe, but even so, the security plans would ensure survival after Armageddon.
Another thing that has impressed me about this office is that the UN clearly does not put a lot of its money into aesthetics! While the evil, evil, evil World Bank is housed in an incredible colonial mansion with flowered porticos and a satellite so big that it should be encrusted with diamonds and hidden in a giant volcano, the UNICEF compound (yes, they have a compound) is neither incredible nor colonial. In fact, it is just a couple of pretty nondescript buildings with a few guards (everyone has guards here, you have to), a bunch of very cheap, very old desks, and some blue cubicle walls (I'm going to have to learn to love the colour blue if I want to work for the UN). There is nothing fancy or extravagant about the place. In fact, when I was driven to my security meeting yesterday, it was in a mid-90's white 4 Runner with UNICEF painted on the side. The other office was pretty plain as well, so I'm guessing that most of them look like this. Except, probably, where the UN Ambassador and other such important people work. Anyways, I like the fact that it's so plain. It's so hypocritical otherwise.
I also have a regular tuk-tuk driver now. Apparently this happens often, as a regular gig may be the only guarantee of steady pay, especially in a profession as competitive as professional tuk-tuk driver. My driver's name is Jack (well, that's what he says but I doubt that's what his mother calls him) and he's a day younger than me! Actually, we had sort of an awkward moment because he told me he was 26 but then said his birthday is a day after mine, year and all, and I was reluctant to put two and two together for him and tell him that he's actually a year younger than he thinks. So, I said I am 25 and remarked about how wonderful a month October is for being born and left it at that. Jack is hilarious, very curious about America, loves living in Phnom Penh, and happens to be very cute. I am determined to set him up with Kimsray, as they are both single and my only two friends in town. Jack will be driving Kimsray and I around tomorrow as we explore Phnom Penh so I'll post some pictures and keep you updated on my matchmaking progress.
I also love the drive to work because every day I get to pass a) the American Embassy, b) Wat Phnom, the founding place of Phnom Penh, and c) an elephant that apparently lives in Wat Phnom park and allows tourists to ride on its back for an obscene amount of money. Kimsray and I are going to sneak away for lunch today and try to take a picture.
So that's all. I'm sure I will be writing lots more later. For now, it's only my first week but I love my internship, love the UN, and I'm crazy about UNICEF!
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Monday, May 25, 2009
Sunday, May 24, 2009
My Kind of People
Saturday was lovely. After a leisurely breakfast at Flavours I went to the Royal Palace. The tuk-tuk ride was harrowing but short. When we got there, the driver insisted on waiting and giving me a tour of the city. I tried to explain that I was spending the day in town and wouldn't need him but he wouldn't listen and wouldn't even let me pay. Finally, I shoved a dollar into his hand and told him I might see him later. As this was going on I was attacked by two children, a little boy trying to sell me DVDs and a girl trying to sell me water. I said no and she said "Maybe later? You remember my England hat!" I said maybe later and went in.
Travel well!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
In line in front of me were two older black women and a man. I was so happy and kept hoping that they would see me and say hello (I know, this sounds pathetic). We sort of smiled and said hi and they moved on but a little while later I started talking to L, the husband, and the four of us became fast friends.
They were all absolutely lovely, one of the women is a professor (Dr. J) teaching in Hong Kong right now and all three of my new companions are incredibly well traveled. 
We spent our time at the Royal Palace and next door, at the National Museum, talking and taking pictures of each other. Honestly, I think I would have gone crazy if I hadn't met them.
We spent our time at the Royal Palace and next door, at the National Museum, talking and taking pictures of each other. Honestly, I think I would have gone crazy if I hadn't met them. I won't post their pictures because I didn't ask (bad me) but i will post the pictures of two Cambodian girls who came up to me and asked to get a picture with me. I, confused, said yes, and insisted that they take one with my camera too.
I didn't understand what this was about, although I had my suspicions, which were confirmed when Dr. J explained that they had probably never seen a black person before, and that this happens to her all of the time in China. This started us sharing our "traveling while black" stories (touching our hair, asking what nationality we are after long conversations, being started at as our group enters a room) and again I was glad to know that I am not alone.
I didn't understand what this was about, although I had my suspicions, which were confirmed when Dr. J explained that they had probably never seen a black person before, and that this happens to her all of the time in China. This started us sharing our "traveling while black" stories (touching our hair, asking what nationality we are after long conversations, being started at as our group enters a room) and again I was glad to know that I am not alone.
It was a sad moment when we finally had to say goodbye, but Dr. J and crew were headed to Vietnam, so with big hugs and promises to keep in touch, we parted, them to Hanoi and me to the Foreign Correspondent's Club to drown my sorrows in french fries and a banana coconut milkshake.
Traveling solo is great for tons of reasons, but the best reason is all of the people you get to meet along the way.
Travel well!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Views from a Tuk-Tuk
A tuk-tuk is basically a horse drawn carriage with a Vespa instead of a horse: 
While infinitely safer than riding on the back of just the Vespa (or a moto, as they're called), riding a tuk-tuk can still be a little terrifying. If there are traffic rules in Cambodia, I have yet to discover them, and I am getting quite used to driving on the wrong side of the road. There's nothing to do on the back of a tuk-tuk by yourself except look around and take pictures. So I have decided to post an occasional series of my views from a tuk-tuk. Please forgive the shoddy photography, I'm no Ansel Adams and I promise I'll work on getting better with my little digital camera. Just wait til I start posting my Flip videos, those are realllyyy terrible!
And now I present... Views From a Tuk-Tuk
These are the views of the back of my tuk-tuk drivers' heads. Note that the one in the middle has decorated his tuk-tuk with flowers and such. Definitely a more enjoyable ride when you have something nice to look at.
Motos are better seen from a tuk-tuk in my opinion. The sight of whole families riding on the back of a moto is terrifyingly common. These kids definitely have more guts than me!
Speaking of children, I have a lot to say about what I'm seeing here, but I'd rather wait until I start working and can get a lot of different perspectives on the issue. This was a little boy sitting by himself on a bench by a construction site. I didn't see any other people around but since he has shoes I'm guessing that he is better cared for than a lot of the other children.
These are just the first views, there will be more, especially while I'm afraid of motos!
Travel well!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Pictures!
Sorry for the delay but the wifi is so slow at the cafe by my guesthouse that it's been impossible to upload anything! I'm doing well, lots of stories but I'll leave them for the next post. Enjoy!
This was the view from my window at the hotel (my mother asked for these):
I took these pictures at about 6am, when the shopkeeper was just getting ready to sell food from this little stand on the corner. You can buy almost anything at a stand on a corner (or street) here.
There are a lot of large and very royal looking buildings around Phnom Penh that are reminiscent of a grander and more prosperous past. Probably when the French were here.
This would be a sad picture except that the lizard was alive and just looked like it was sunning itself. I wonder if this is the same lizard who has taken residence in my bathroom?
This was the beautiful outdoor restaurant at the hotel.
Independence Monument. Soon I'll get pictures and write a better story about it, but I thought I'd show it to you anyways!
Next up, a continuing series (that I'm just starting): Views From a Tuk-Tuk
Thanks to everyone who's been emailing and commenting! Everything is so new here and I'm so glad I have people to share it with. I can't believe I've only been here for three days, it feels like I've already had a full vacation!
Travel well!
kat
Friday, May 22, 2009
Something New Every Minute
Day two in Cambodia. It's still a little surreal being here, I feel like I should be watching this on TV rather than living it.
I am absolutely thrilled about the guesthouse, thank goodness. When I got there he offered me the “big” room, on the upper floor. This room is indeed large, with three twin beds (in case I have a sleepover), a 4-tiered bamboo shelf, two fans, a desk with no chair, and a bathroom/shower. There is no wifi but the café down the street has it. Of course, I chose the one across from that because it had more customers and the one I chose had no wifi! The Herb Café (the one next door) has a password so I’ll go over there for dessert to find out what it is, and then I'll use it at either one from now on. They’re both beautiful, shady (as in “has lots of shade” not “dodgy, sneaky, untrustworthy”) and I’ve gotta say, there’s nothing wrong with the French/English/American food influences at all of these places. I know I should be having Cambodian and Thai food but who can resist a good Croque Madame? Not I.
I had quite an adventure before moving today. I got a little nervous about choosing the guesthouse on recommendation alone, without trying any other options, so I spent the wee small hours of the morning, when I couldn’t sleep, exploring other options, preferably those with wifi and air conditioning. There were only two other options that seemed reasonable and both of them were very far away. Then, whilst perusing the Out & About (or Out & Out, I can't remember but I'll check it out and get back to you) mini-mag, I saw an advertisement for furnished apartments, only one was within my fairly limited price range (but still more than I wanted to spend) but it offered cable tv, laundry, AC, wifi, security, and an actual apartment rather than a room for $400 a month. I decided to check it out. I went outside and hailed my first tuk-tuk. Well, “hailed” isn’t exactly the right word. There are hordes of them waiting outside just begging for a customer, so really, I simply acquiesced at last. After consulting with three men and a map, we finally figured out where I wanted to go. I hopped on the back of the tuk-tuk and off we went! After about five seconds I was sure that I was going to die and began to pray. The drivers here drive like they’re in Rome but on narrower streets. Road directions means nothing to most of the motos and more than once we almost hit a man driving on the left side (and no, this is not England). I have also noticed that the drivers here honk more as an announcement of their presence than as a warning. Of course, with these drivers, I would be honking from the time I started my engine until I shut it off. The ride was thrilling, however, because this was my first look at Phnom Penh beyond the three streets I can walk to, and I was not disappointed.
*a side note: I am writing this while eating the most deliciously perfect Greek salad that I have ever had and it’s only $3.75!! I am sure that nobody in Greece would recognize it, but I love it.
While driving we passed the glorious French Embassy, about 52 scooter shops, an Apple store, dozens of beautiful colonial homes, and a highway-bridge looking thing that I can’t wait to cross. I also saw a man kneeling before two monks and I instinctively looked away. It felt like I was intruding on a sacred moment, even though it was in the streets.
The French and English influence is as obvious on the roads as it is in the food, with the little blue signs on the roundabouts and the statues in the middle. The tuk-tuk driver was clearly lost and kept turning around and stopping to look at the map, which was a good sign to me that this was not somewhere that I wanted to live. If the driver was lost, my goodness, how would anybody else ever find me? We were looking for #11, street 275 (the buildings and streets are numbered but not necessarily in a discernible order) and when we finally found it, it was a 6 yard block in the middle of nowhere! First was #98, then 97, then 14, 13, and 8. No number 11. We turned and circled again. There was no #11 and the only building that looked like an apartment building (#98) had no discernible point of entry. The driver and I shrugged at each other and went back to the hotel. I decided that the guesthouse would be good enough, especially since I haven’t made any friends yet and would really hate living alone.
After I checked out of the hotel ($87.15 for two nights at $35 each and a couple of extras at breakfast), I hopped a tuk-tuk with my bags and checked into the Blue Dog.
Then came my next adventure, a trip to the Lucky Supermarket. Lucky’s are legend and one of the first things I heard about when I started asking around about living in Phnom Penh. The big glass façade appealed to my need for modern architecture and I had seen it several times while being driven down the road. I knew it was within walking distance so, determined, I set off. On the way, I stopped at the first Starbucks I’ve seen. Say what you will, but I am a true Seattle girl at heart (in some respects) and nothing makes me feel more like home than going to a Starbucks wherever I am. When traveling alone, it is good to have a few points of familiarity when you’re feeling lost or lonely. For me, Starbucks is one of them. All around the world I can feel like I’m back in the Northwest, stopping for an apple cider before heading home. I have always been a fan of globalization, and this is one of the reasons why. Amidst the fear and excitement of the unfamiliar, a little taste of home is always welcome.
After my cold Jasmine tea (delish, btw), I moved on to Lucky’s. It was glorious. So many things from home were there, and so inexpensive. I got a large bottle of Dove conditioner (I think, the writing on the bottle is all in Khmer but the store label claims it’s conditioner. We shall see.) for $4.45, a tube of Arm & Hammer toothpaste (my favourite) for $2.40, and a mug, pot, and spoon (for making tea in the room), a bar of Ritter chocolate (I was in desperate need), and some baby powder and Evian face spritzer (it may sound pretentious but try it, you’ll see). All this for 104,600 Riel, or $24.90. Also, and my mother won’t like reading this, the alcohol was CHEAP! A 1Liter bottle of Gordon’s was only $10! 750mL of Bacardi was $7. Unbelievable. Sadly, they didn’t have Bombay Sapphire or Hendrick’s, so the search continues. Also, no cheap wine. But hard liquor, oh my goodness. Do not stop at duty free.
An observation: Everywhere I go, I see my beloved car, my CR-V. In Seattle, Ann Arbor, any hippie-liberal town, it’s there. It is also everywhere in Cambodia. Proof that it is indeed, the greatest car in the world.
Another observation: Men and women here walk around selling everything, and there are plenty of roadside stands wherever you look. I have seen people selling everything from feather dusters to nail clippers to sunglasses to some sort of fruit that I have never seen before. There’s actually never any reason to leave your front porch, as whatever you may need will inevitably come to you.
I have more pictures to post but they'll have to wait. Also, I'm sure the posts will get shorter but there is just so much new to see every minute that I have too much to say! And believe me, I'm skipping things that I'm sure I'll write about later.
More dispatches from beyond soon!
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
I am absolutely thrilled about the guesthouse, thank goodness. When I got there he offered me the “big” room, on the upper floor. This room is indeed large, with three twin beds (in case I have a sleepover), a 4-tiered bamboo shelf, two fans, a desk with no chair, and a bathroom/shower. There is no wifi but the café down the street has it. Of course, I chose the one across from that because it had more customers and the one I chose had no wifi! The Herb Café (the one next door) has a password so I’ll go over there for dessert to find out what it is, and then I'll use it at either one from now on. They’re both beautiful, shady (as in “has lots of shade” not “dodgy, sneaky, untrustworthy”) and I’ve gotta say, there’s nothing wrong with the French/English/American food influences at all of these places. I know I should be having Cambodian and Thai food but who can resist a good Croque Madame? Not I.
I had quite an adventure before moving today. I got a little nervous about choosing the guesthouse on recommendation alone, without trying any other options, so I spent the wee small hours of the morning, when I couldn’t sleep, exploring other options, preferably those with wifi and air conditioning. There were only two other options that seemed reasonable and both of them were very far away. Then, whilst perusing the Out & About (or Out & Out, I can't remember but I'll check it out and get back to you) mini-mag, I saw an advertisement for furnished apartments, only one was within my fairly limited price range (but still more than I wanted to spend) but it offered cable tv, laundry, AC, wifi, security, and an actual apartment rather than a room for $400 a month. I decided to check it out. I went outside and hailed my first tuk-tuk. Well, “hailed” isn’t exactly the right word. There are hordes of them waiting outside just begging for a customer, so really, I simply acquiesced at last. After consulting with three men and a map, we finally figured out where I wanted to go. I hopped on the back of the tuk-tuk and off we went! After about five seconds I was sure that I was going to die and began to pray. The drivers here drive like they’re in Rome but on narrower streets. Road directions means nothing to most of the motos and more than once we almost hit a man driving on the left side (and no, this is not England). I have also noticed that the drivers here honk more as an announcement of their presence than as a warning. Of course, with these drivers, I would be honking from the time I started my engine until I shut it off. The ride was thrilling, however, because this was my first look at Phnom Penh beyond the three streets I can walk to, and I was not disappointed.
*a side note: I am writing this while eating the most deliciously perfect Greek salad that I have ever had and it’s only $3.75!! I am sure that nobody in Greece would recognize it, but I love it.
While driving we passed the glorious French Embassy, about 52 scooter shops, an Apple store, dozens of beautiful colonial homes, and a highway-bridge looking thing that I can’t wait to cross. I also saw a man kneeling before two monks and I instinctively looked away. It felt like I was intruding on a sacred moment, even though it was in the streets.
The French and English influence is as obvious on the roads as it is in the food, with the little blue signs on the roundabouts and the statues in the middle. The tuk-tuk driver was clearly lost and kept turning around and stopping to look at the map, which was a good sign to me that this was not somewhere that I wanted to live. If the driver was lost, my goodness, how would anybody else ever find me? We were looking for #11, street 275 (the buildings and streets are numbered but not necessarily in a discernible order) and when we finally found it, it was a 6 yard block in the middle of nowhere! First was #98, then 97, then 14, 13, and 8. No number 11. We turned and circled again. There was no #11 and the only building that looked like an apartment building (#98) had no discernible point of entry. The driver and I shrugged at each other and went back to the hotel. I decided that the guesthouse would be good enough, especially since I haven’t made any friends yet and would really hate living alone.
After I checked out of the hotel ($87.15 for two nights at $35 each and a couple of extras at breakfast), I hopped a tuk-tuk with my bags and checked into the Blue Dog.
Then came my next adventure, a trip to the Lucky Supermarket. Lucky’s are legend and one of the first things I heard about when I started asking around about living in Phnom Penh. The big glass façade appealed to my need for modern architecture and I had seen it several times while being driven down the road. I knew it was within walking distance so, determined, I set off. On the way, I stopped at the first Starbucks I’ve seen. Say what you will, but I am a true Seattle girl at heart (in some respects) and nothing makes me feel more like home than going to a Starbucks wherever I am. When traveling alone, it is good to have a few points of familiarity when you’re feeling lost or lonely. For me, Starbucks is one of them. All around the world I can feel like I’m back in the Northwest, stopping for an apple cider before heading home. I have always been a fan of globalization, and this is one of the reasons why. Amidst the fear and excitement of the unfamiliar, a little taste of home is always welcome.
After my cold Jasmine tea (delish, btw), I moved on to Lucky’s. It was glorious. So many things from home were there, and so inexpensive. I got a large bottle of Dove conditioner (I think, the writing on the bottle is all in Khmer but the store label claims it’s conditioner. We shall see.) for $4.45, a tube of Arm & Hammer toothpaste (my favourite) for $2.40, and a mug, pot, and spoon (for making tea in the room), a bar of Ritter chocolate (I was in desperate need), and some baby powder and Evian face spritzer (it may sound pretentious but try it, you’ll see). All this for 104,600 Riel, or $24.90. Also, and my mother won’t like reading this, the alcohol was CHEAP! A 1Liter bottle of Gordon’s was only $10! 750mL of Bacardi was $7. Unbelievable. Sadly, they didn’t have Bombay Sapphire or Hendrick’s, so the search continues. Also, no cheap wine. But hard liquor, oh my goodness. Do not stop at duty free.
An observation: Everywhere I go, I see my beloved car, my CR-V. In Seattle, Ann Arbor, any hippie-liberal town, it’s there. It is also everywhere in Cambodia. Proof that it is indeed, the greatest car in the world.
Another observation: Men and women here walk around selling everything, and there are plenty of roadside stands wherever you look. I have seen people selling everything from feather dusters to nail clippers to sunglasses to some sort of fruit that I have never seen before. There’s actually never any reason to leave your front porch, as whatever you may need will inevitably come to you.
I have more pictures to post but they'll have to wait. Also, I'm sure the posts will get shorter but there is just so much new to see every minute that I have too much to say! And believe me, I'm skipping things that I'm sure I'll write about later.
More dispatches from beyond soon!
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
I Made It!
I finally made it to Cambodia!! I can't believe it. This has been a crazy 32-ish hours and I'm not even sure what day or time it is. I wrote notes on the journey to post later so I'm copying those and adding my most recent experiences below those. From DC to LA to Taipei to Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok to Phnom Penh was about 32 hours or so. Possibly more but I’m too tired to do more than an estimation. I am posting these before I crash at my hotel tonight and do not wake up again for at least 8 hours but hopefully closer to two days. Please forgive any grammar mistakes…
THE JOURNEY
I ended up briefly in the Taiwan airport. Not on purpose, but I have a layover here for an hour before I get back on the plane and head to Kuala Lumpur. This airport is crazy, it’s the most high-security place I’ve ever been besides the Pentagon. We landed at about 6.30am Taiwan time (I’m still not entirely clear on whether it’s Tuesday or Wednesday) after 13 hours or so of flying. The flight was awwwfulll. It was as cramped and crowded as a United domestic flight but about three times as big. I slept through dinner and breakfast was probably some of the worst food I have ever had in my life. And I’ve lived in a lot of dorms. There was always a line for the bathrooms, which were about half the size of the ones in normal planes. Luckily, we had On-Demand so I slept and watched movies and old episodes of The Simpsons. Business and first class looked lovely. They had little pods and everything. And the flight attendants are amazing. The women are all beautiful and have perfect makeup and gorgeous hair with little purple bows and beautiful, beautiful teal dresses with pink flowers. The men wear teal suits, so it’s sort of a self-selecting group. The flight attendants for all of the airlines were absolutely perfect and very polite. Not friendly, but polite.
Once we landed in Taipei we all had to get out whether we were continuing on that flight or not. They let us out in this little hallway and we had to walk down, go through security AGAIN, and then once we were up the escalator we had entered duty free heaven. I have never seen so many duty free shops for everything from chocolate, watches, liquor, handbags and electronic equipment. Heathrow has nothing on this place. Down the hallway a little bit was my gate. Each gate here is a separate room and an employee checks your passport and boarding pass before you’re allowed in. Then it’s down a flight of stairs (or a really nifty elevator) and into the waiting room, complete with its own bathroom. After a quick wait it was back onto the plane, through the “economy class” door, first and business class even have their own hallway. Sigh.
I haven’t seen another black person since I reached the international terminal at LAX. This, I suppose, is the plight of the traveling BAP. I imagine that there won’t be many of us in Cambodia. A funny thing happens when two BAPs see each other on the road. They almost never speak to each other. I am so good at making friends while I’m traveling, heck, I’ve made two on this trip already. When other folks travel alone, especially young folks, they expect to meet people, to talk, to facebook each other and generally add to their traveling network. I have always met people in hostels, seen them later at a festival in another country, or traded emails about great places to visit in cities we’re passing through. But never with a BAP. I often see BAPs in Europe, especially Italy, usually in a group, occasionally (very occasionally) also alone but they always just look at me and keep going. There’s none of the usual signs that bond two solo travelers together. The recognition of another American/Canadian/Western kid with a backpack. The looks and smiles. The eventual move to seats near each other. Finally, someone says hi, the other, relieved, responds, and soon you’ve dispensed with the vital statistics and are trading road stories. This is how I found a buddy in Taiwan who has the same layover in Kuala Lumpur while waiting for the same flight in Bangkok. We’re both relieved to have someone to figure out the baggage situation with. Needless to say, she is not a BAP. We have to work on this people. I don’t want to be the only one on the plane, and one day I hope there will be just as many black kids with backpacks as white ones, but until then, if you do see me on the road, say hi. Or at least smile, I’ll take it from there.
The flight to Kuala Lumpur was much more pleasant. The plane was only about half full and I had the entire row to myself so I could finally stretch out. Lunch was only about half as terrible as breakfast. When we finally landed in Kuala Lumpur, Jordan (the girl I met in Taipei) had a three hour layover before our flight to Bangkok. However, the people at LAX had made both of us check our luggage only to KLU, so we had to (I kid you not) fill out immigration forms, get our passports stamped, get our bags from baggage claim, go out one door of the airport and in another, up the elevator, check in at the desk on the other side of the airport, get our passports stamped again, and find our gate. It was exhausting. It took about an hour when we were finally able to sit down and relax for a bit with the free wifi thoughtfully provided by the airport. KLU is absolutely gorgeous. It's big, glass, modern, surrounded by beautiful trees and has little bamboo gardens and such. It also has crazy duty free shops, much classier than Taipei's thrown-together strip mall, and yet nothing like I was about to see in Bangkok.
The flight to Bangkok was only about an hour, thank goodness, and then I had an hour layover before my last flight to Phnom Penh. Unfortunately, I had to go through the entire passport/baggage/check-in/baggage process again so I was running like mad. This time, not only did I have to go through the entire stamping process (which, I would like to note, consistently took me 10 minutes longer than every other person who went through the line. Three or four people next to me would get their passports stamped while the checker looked me over, verified my photo, typed stuff, etc. I don't know why but it started to get a little frustrating when I was running to catch my flight) but I also had to pay an excess baggage fee (every airline has a different limit) of 700 Baht or $20, but they didn't take cards or US dollars so I had to run to a money exchange desk, trade money, and run back. Then through the gate, etc. etc. and through yet another security check (my bags have been checked at least 18 times and every time they manage to run them again and again, all the while apologizing and finding nothing. I mean, WTF?) and I finally made it to the gate with 10 minutes to spare. Holla!
The flight to Phnom Penh was uneventful, as I slept for the entire hour. Unlike BKK and KLU, PNH is not an enormous glass museum featuring the works of Hermes, Dior, and Chivas. It's a very small, very new, and very clean airport. The outside looks more like a village temple than an international transit center. We walked down the stairs (no escalators) to the visa area where about 15 people were sitting behind one counter passing our passports from one end to the other. Only two of the people were actually stamping them and one person was taking cash. The others were just sitting there looking very smart in their uniforms. I forgot to get a passport photo, which I knew I was supposed to, but it was just an extra $1 on top of the $25 business visa that I had to get. I'll have to get it renewed every month but apparently that's just the way it goes.
Once I got outside the man from my hotel was waiting with a sign that said "Mr. Kat Calvin, Flight blah blah blah" and I figured that this must be him. We walked to the parking lot and got into his maroon 1980s Toyota Camry with dog and cat window shades and headed out.
Phnom Penh looks terrifying at night.
It looks like something out of Good Morning Vietnam. After the modernity of the last two airports, I guess I was fooled into expecting something different. But instead it looked just like I should have expected. In the dark there are still plenty of people around. Tuk-tuks (which I will provide pictures of later) and motorcycles (motos) compete with cars for the road. There are gates everywhere and all of the shops are in rows of garages. And by shops I mean clothes, groceries, pharmaceuticals, optical shops, and dentists. This was about the time when I was glad I watch so many travel shows, as Michael Palin when to a garage dentist somewhere in the Middle East in one of his BBC series'. There are also a lot of very small children walking barefoot by themselves, babies being held up on motorcycles that are barely sturdy enough for an adult, and lots full of tents made out of tarps. There are also a lot of car dealerships, including Ford and Mitsubishi, and enormous Nokia where I'll be buying a phone tomorrow, and an enormous grocery store that I had heard a lot about and was glad to finally see in person.
When we finally reached Hotel Anise I was thrilled. It is absolutely beautiful. The restaurant has seating on the balcony, the receptionist was incredibly nice, breakfast and laundry are included in the very reasonable price, and my room has internet, cable tv, and a bathroom that doubles as the shower. And air conditioning. And thank goodness too because it is stiflingly hot outside!
Now that I've updated you I am finally going to bed. I'm hoping to sleep all night and wake up in time for breakfast and a walk in the morning. I'm staying here for two nights but I'd like to find my guesthouse tomorrow. We'll see though.
Thanks for reading, I'm sure I'll have plenty more to talk about tomorrow!
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
THE JOURNEY
I ended up briefly in the Taiwan airport. Not on purpose, but I have a layover here for an hour before I get back on the plane and head to Kuala Lumpur. This airport is crazy, it’s the most high-security place I’ve ever been besides the Pentagon. We landed at about 6.30am Taiwan time (I’m still not entirely clear on whether it’s Tuesday or Wednesday) after 13 hours or so of flying. The flight was awwwfulll. It was as cramped and crowded as a United domestic flight but about three times as big. I slept through dinner and breakfast was probably some of the worst food I have ever had in my life. And I’ve lived in a lot of dorms. There was always a line for the bathrooms, which were about half the size of the ones in normal planes. Luckily, we had On-Demand so I slept and watched movies and old episodes of The Simpsons. Business and first class looked lovely. They had little pods and everything. And the flight attendants are amazing. The women are all beautiful and have perfect makeup and gorgeous hair with little purple bows and beautiful, beautiful teal dresses with pink flowers. The men wear teal suits, so it’s sort of a self-selecting group. The flight attendants for all of the airlines were absolutely perfect and very polite. Not friendly, but polite.
Once we landed in Taipei we all had to get out whether we were continuing on that flight or not. They let us out in this little hallway and we had to walk down, go through security AGAIN, and then once we were up the escalator we had entered duty free heaven. I have never seen so many duty free shops for everything from chocolate, watches, liquor, handbags and electronic equipment. Heathrow has nothing on this place. Down the hallway a little bit was my gate. Each gate here is a separate room and an employee checks your passport and boarding pass before you’re allowed in. Then it’s down a flight of stairs (or a really nifty elevator) and into the waiting room, complete with its own bathroom. After a quick wait it was back onto the plane, through the “economy class” door, first and business class even have their own hallway. Sigh.
I haven’t seen another black person since I reached the international terminal at LAX. This, I suppose, is the plight of the traveling BAP. I imagine that there won’t be many of us in Cambodia. A funny thing happens when two BAPs see each other on the road. They almost never speak to each other. I am so good at making friends while I’m traveling, heck, I’ve made two on this trip already. When other folks travel alone, especially young folks, they expect to meet people, to talk, to facebook each other and generally add to their traveling network. I have always met people in hostels, seen them later at a festival in another country, or traded emails about great places to visit in cities we’re passing through. But never with a BAP. I often see BAPs in Europe, especially Italy, usually in a group, occasionally (very occasionally) also alone but they always just look at me and keep going. There’s none of the usual signs that bond two solo travelers together. The recognition of another American/Canadian/Western kid with a backpack. The looks and smiles. The eventual move to seats near each other. Finally, someone says hi, the other, relieved, responds, and soon you’ve dispensed with the vital statistics and are trading road stories. This is how I found a buddy in Taiwan who has the same layover in Kuala Lumpur while waiting for the same flight in Bangkok. We’re both relieved to have someone to figure out the baggage situation with. Needless to say, she is not a BAP. We have to work on this people. I don’t want to be the only one on the plane, and one day I hope there will be just as many black kids with backpacks as white ones, but until then, if you do see me on the road, say hi. Or at least smile, I’ll take it from there.
The flight to Kuala Lumpur was much more pleasant. The plane was only about half full and I had the entire row to myself so I could finally stretch out. Lunch was only about half as terrible as breakfast. When we finally landed in Kuala Lumpur, Jordan (the girl I met in Taipei) had a three hour layover before our flight to Bangkok. However, the people at LAX had made both of us check our luggage only to KLU, so we had to (I kid you not) fill out immigration forms, get our passports stamped, get our bags from baggage claim, go out one door of the airport and in another, up the elevator, check in at the desk on the other side of the airport, get our passports stamped again, and find our gate. It was exhausting. It took about an hour when we were finally able to sit down and relax for a bit with the free wifi thoughtfully provided by the airport. KLU is absolutely gorgeous. It's big, glass, modern, surrounded by beautiful trees and has little bamboo gardens and such. It also has crazy duty free shops, much classier than Taipei's thrown-together strip mall, and yet nothing like I was about to see in Bangkok.
The flight to Bangkok was only about an hour, thank goodness, and then I had an hour layover before my last flight to Phnom Penh. Unfortunately, I had to go through the entire passport/baggage/check-in/baggage process again so I was running like mad. This time, not only did I have to go through the entire stamping process (which, I would like to note, consistently took me 10 minutes longer than every other person who went through the line. Three or four people next to me would get their passports stamped while the checker looked me over, verified my photo, typed stuff, etc. I don't know why but it started to get a little frustrating when I was running to catch my flight) but I also had to pay an excess baggage fee (every airline has a different limit) of 700 Baht or $20, but they didn't take cards or US dollars so I had to run to a money exchange desk, trade money, and run back. Then through the gate, etc. etc. and through yet another security check (my bags have been checked at least 18 times and every time they manage to run them again and again, all the while apologizing and finding nothing. I mean, WTF?) and I finally made it to the gate with 10 minutes to spare. Holla!
The flight to Phnom Penh was uneventful, as I slept for the entire hour. Unlike BKK and KLU, PNH is not an enormous glass museum featuring the works of Hermes, Dior, and Chivas. It's a very small, very new, and very clean airport. The outside looks more like a village temple than an international transit center. We walked down the stairs (no escalators) to the visa area where about 15 people were sitting behind one counter passing our passports from one end to the other. Only two of the people were actually stamping them and one person was taking cash. The others were just sitting there looking very smart in their uniforms. I forgot to get a passport photo, which I knew I was supposed to, but it was just an extra $1 on top of the $25 business visa that I had to get. I'll have to get it renewed every month but apparently that's just the way it goes.
Once I got outside the man from my hotel was waiting with a sign that said "Mr. Kat Calvin, Flight blah blah blah" and I figured that this must be him. We walked to the parking lot and got into his maroon 1980s Toyota Camry with dog and cat window shades and headed out.
Phnom Penh looks terrifying at night.
It looks like something out of Good Morning Vietnam. After the modernity of the last two airports, I guess I was fooled into expecting something different. But instead it looked just like I should have expected. In the dark there are still plenty of people around. Tuk-tuks (which I will provide pictures of later) and motorcycles (motos) compete with cars for the road. There are gates everywhere and all of the shops are in rows of garages. And by shops I mean clothes, groceries, pharmaceuticals, optical shops, and dentists. This was about the time when I was glad I watch so many travel shows, as Michael Palin when to a garage dentist somewhere in the Middle East in one of his BBC series'. There are also a lot of very small children walking barefoot by themselves, babies being held up on motorcycles that are barely sturdy enough for an adult, and lots full of tents made out of tarps. There are also a lot of car dealerships, including Ford and Mitsubishi, and enormous Nokia where I'll be buying a phone tomorrow, and an enormous grocery store that I had heard a lot about and was glad to finally see in person.
When we finally reached Hotel Anise I was thrilled. It is absolutely beautiful. The restaurant has seating on the balcony, the receptionist was incredibly nice, breakfast and laundry are included in the very reasonable price, and my room has internet, cable tv, and a bathroom that doubles as the shower. And air conditioning. And thank goodness too because it is stiflingly hot outside!Now that I've updated you I am finally going to bed. I'm hoping to sleep all night and wake up in time for breakfast and a walk in the morning. I'm staying here for two nights but I'd like to find my guesthouse tomorrow. We'll see though.
Thanks for reading, I'm sure I'll have plenty more to talk about tomorrow!
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Don't be a Virgin virgin
Virgin Airlines. I've loved it since I first flew them from Boston to London in undergrad. British Air is nice but they're more than a little stuffy and old fashioned, very british, very much for my parents generation than mine. Richard Branson (that's Sir Richard Branson to you) knows what's up. And Virgin Air is it.
After falling in love with Virgin Atlantic, I was thrilled when Virgin America started and I have been dying to fly it, so of course when I saw that they had a $99 flight from DC to LA, I jumped on it. Lucky for me, my benevolent stepfather surprised me with a first-class upgrade, so I got to cross the country in style (which is, I maintain, the only way a country like ours should be crossed). First class on Virgin Air means free cocktails (Bombay Sapphire G&T's for me- sorry Xan, they didn't have Hendrick's!), cookies with tea, appetizers, delicious hot meals (maple glazed chicken today) and wine with dinner. Fully reclining chairs. Personal TV's with movies, music, and CNN. Loooove it.
Even if you're flying coach, Virgin is what's up. You always get comfy seats, $13 wifi on board, and yummy (if not free) food. The flight was especially interesting because for the first time in my life I had an all male crew! They were all wonderful and one of the flight attendants (also named Kelly (but not the right way: kelley :-D) so it's no wonder that I liked him!) not only looked exactly like John Malkovich, but was super nice, made perfect cocktails, and when my TV stopped working mid-flight, he arranged for a $200 credit for my next trip!! I love him.
One of the things I am so excited about on this trip is all of the new airlines I'm getting to fly. Malaysia Air from LA to Kuala Lumpur through to Bangkok. Bangkok Air from Bangkok to Phnom Peh. Plus I get to fly South Africa Air from Bangkok to East London in September and who knows how many small airlines all around Africa and SE Asia. Vayama was great for giving me lots of options to choose from for the big flights. In fact, for whatever reason the airline options on the site switched back and forth every other day or so, which meant I was able to spend a few days (or weeks) exploring the flight options and still knew that my top choice would be available. Of course, it probably helps that there are probably only three other people flying from LA to Kuala Lumpur and probably me and one guy flying from Bangkok to Johannesburg, so the flights weren't exactly selling out!
I can't think anymore, so I'm going to keep waiting for my flight in tacky LAX. No, the internet isn't free, but it isn't in Dulles either and I figured $8 for T-Mobile wasn't too much to pay considering I had a good 8 hours of waiting to do today.
Fly with style. Fly with class. Fly Virgin. I'm definitely booking a ticket to the moon.
Travel well!
kat
Monday, May 18, 2009
Travelgrove digs BAPworld
I've been meaning to write about the awesome new site, Travelgrove, for some time now. Travelgrove offers the usual flight search, hotel deals, etc. that you can find in a lot of places, but they also offer a few things that are really different. The travel guides offer a lot of practical, detailed information on just about any country you want to visit. The blog offers tips, insights, and reviews of all things travel-ish, and the community offers a lot of great features, including the option to create your own travel blog! Travelgrove combines a lot of the features of separate sites into one, making the process easier and more streamlined. Plus, the look and personality of the site is fun and simple.
As if I didn't like Travelgrove before, now they've given me a reason to really love it, they reviewed BAPworld! I won't tell you what it says, but I highly recommend that you check out the review and the site. After you read it, come back and tell me what you think!
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
As if I didn't like Travelgrove before, now they've given me a reason to really love it, they reviewed BAPworld! I won't tell you what it says, but I highly recommend that you check out the review and the site. After you read it, come back and tell me what you think!
Travel well,
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
The Night Before
I just said goodbye to my mom. She's leaving the hotel much earlier than I am so I had to say goodbye tonight. My mom always cries when I leave, whether I'm going to the grocery store or back to school. I always feel guilty and know I'm going to miss her, but this time I feel especially lonely. No matter how excited you are about going away, no matter how thrilling the adventure, how incredible the opportunity, or how wonderful the trip will surely be, the moment when you say goodbye to your last loved one and walk away down that lonely hallway is a little terrifying.
I can't wait to go to Cambodia, to explore Southeast Asia, to work for the UN, to make my way to Africa. I have always wanted to see and do the things that I am headed towards and I know that great memories await me. But it's a little scary. The night before is always a little scary. Traveling alone always includes hard times. There are scary moments, tense moments, moments when you wonder what the heck you were thinking and when you can finally go home. These are the most valuable moments because they're when the solo traveler is really tested. They're what you look back on and know you've grown, you've changed, you were strong. But they're scary as hell when you're going through them.
These are the things you think of on the night before.
I think I'll go to sleep now.
I can't wait to go to Cambodia, to explore Southeast Asia, to work for the UN, to make my way to Africa. I have always wanted to see and do the things that I am headed towards and I know that great memories await me. But it's a little scary. The night before is always a little scary. Traveling alone always includes hard times. There are scary moments, tense moments, moments when you wonder what the heck you were thinking and when you can finally go home. These are the most valuable moments because they're when the solo traveler is really tested. They're what you look back on and know you've grown, you've changed, you were strong. But they're scary as hell when you're going through them.
These are the things you think of on the night before.
I think I'll go to sleep now.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
D.C. Again. I love it.
Washington. The last time I was here it was 20 degrees outside and the city was celebrating the inauguration of Barack Obama. Five months later, I'm back. It's warmer. And windier. And I'm here for another celebration. My incredible mother just completed her second master's degree at George Washington University and this weekend is her graduation. I am so proud of my mother. She got her MBA almost ten years ago while working full time and raising two teenage children by herself. I don't remember her missing a single play, concert, athletic event, or bad day. I also don't remember her sleeping. This time, with both of us out of the house, she completed this MS while working a full time job, teaching college, taking care of a very rowdy dog, and still sending me money more often than I care to admit. I am so excited to spend this weekend in DC with my mom and stepfather before I head off to Cambodia on Monday (wow!). The next time I see her it will be for my own graduation, from law school, next May.
We are staying at the Fairview Park Marriott in Falls Church, Virginia, a plush, lovely hotel hidden amongst the trees. My room is absolutely gorgeous and I am currently enjoying a delicious steak salad and sea salt fries with a glass of Columbia Crest Chardonnay while I'm waiting for my mother to arrive. The people are nice, the service is great, and they changed the television in the bar from Fox News to CNN as soon as I asked. Just one peeve. The NY Times recently published an article about high end hotels that are still charging for internet when you can get free wifi at any five dollar hostel. This is one of those hotels. I am not amused. It looks like I'll be spending a lot of time in the bar, where, along with the lobby and a few other places, you can get free wifi. Sigh. The sacrifices one has to make.
Over the next few days, in between doing whatever it is my mother wants to do in DC, I will be posting about the preparations for my trip, a loose itinerary, and how you too can plan a long or short-term voluntourism trip to Southeast Asia. I still can't quite believe that I'll be in Cambodia in just a few days. I'm so excited I can barely handle it! I'll be sure to let you in on the fun too!
Back to my fries and CNN...
Travel well,
kat calvin
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
We are staying at the Fairview Park Marriott in Falls Church, Virginia, a plush, lovely hotel hidden amongst the trees. My room is absolutely gorgeous and I am currently enjoying a delicious steak salad and sea salt fries with a glass of Columbia Crest Chardonnay while I'm waiting for my mother to arrive. The people are nice, the service is great, and they changed the television in the bar from Fox News to CNN as soon as I asked. Just one peeve. The NY Times recently published an article about high end hotels that are still charging for internet when you can get free wifi at any five dollar hostel. This is one of those hotels. I am not amused. It looks like I'll be spending a lot of time in the bar, where, along with the lobby and a few other places, you can get free wifi. Sigh. The sacrifices one has to make.
Over the next few days, in between doing whatever it is my mother wants to do in DC, I will be posting about the preparations for my trip, a loose itinerary, and how you too can plan a long or short-term voluntourism trip to Southeast Asia. I still can't quite believe that I'll be in Cambodia in just a few days. I'm so excited I can barely handle it! I'll be sure to let you in on the fun too!
Back to my fries and CNN...
Travel well,
kat calvin
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Vayama Strikes Again!
Well, I finally bought my ticket to South Africa (yaay!!) and once again I got a great deal on Vayama. This site is definitely going to be my go-to site for international airfare. It's easy to use, always saves my information for when I check it over and over (and over) again, and consistently offers the lowest (reliable) prices on flights. Of course, I'll be revising this post if I have a problem later, but for now, I like them.
Travel well!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Travel well!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Subscribe to Indie Podcast (and BAPworld)!
The fabulous Indie Travel Podcast, which I happily write for, is having a subscriber drive for the month of May! Fresh from winning the Lonely Planet award for Best Travel Podcast, they're out in force hoping to woo 2,000 subscribers. If you have iTunes (which you should) you're missing out if you don't listen to the fantastic podcasts produced by Craig and Linda. These Kiwis (that's New Zealanders for the uninitiated :-P) just wrapped up three years of travel and they've had a lot to talk about! On the podcasts they interview locals, talk about their adventures, and share tips and hints about how to travel well. The website is great too! You can read articles by writers like yours truly, and even check out some video podcasts! I just ordered my new Flip video camera (yaay!!) so I'll be sending along some exciting videos over the next nine months, and some of them will be exclusively on Indie Travel!
While you're subscribing to Indie Travel, fill in your email below (or RSS it on the side) and subscribe to BAPworld. Now that I am DONE (yes, DOOONNNEEE!!!) with finals (woohoo!!!) I will be adding tons of great articles and information on both BAPworld and Indie Travel about all of my preparations for my trip, and then sending regular dispatches from abroad. I promise, you don't want to miss them.
Travel well!!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Radio Interview Now!
I should have written this a while ago but I have a final tomorrow and have been studying frantically! The phenomenal Ananda Kiamsha Leeke, Renaissance BAP extraordinaire, hosts a radio show called BAP Living Radio and at 7.30pm on the 3rd of May (That's 21 minutes from when I'm writing...) she will be hosting an episode titled "What is a BAP?" and yours truly will be a guest!
I am excited for the study break and the opportunity to have a great conversation with a few other phenomenal BAPs. Join me if you can, and if you're reading this afterwards, you can click the same link to hear the recording of the interview!
BAP Living Radio
Travel Well!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
I am excited for the study break and the opportunity to have a great conversation with a few other phenomenal BAPs. Join me if you can, and if you're reading this afterwards, you can click the same link to hear the recording of the interview!
BAP Living Radio
Travel Well!
kat
Like this post? Subscribe for more travel tips, stories, and reviews!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
