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There I was, minding my own business, about to enjoy a delicious and inexpensive Thai dinner at Setsara, on st 278. I was reading my book, waiting for the waiter, when suddenly, darkness. I look around, expecting panic to ensue. Would women be running in the streets? Would children begin to cry? Would wild men attack?? I turn and look out of the window. Well, not so much a window as between the bamboo frame. Nothing. No one seems to have noticed that all of the lights in the streets have gone out. Everyone is sitting there just as they were before, expats downing their red curry, moto drivers pleading for customers, security guards playing hacky-sack. As a girl places candles on the table, the waiter comes to take my order (they have gas stoves so nothing gums up the works). I ask him what happened. "The lights went out." Gee. Thanks.
"Yes, but why?" I respond.
He looks at me quizzically. "I don't know. They just did."
I ask him why some of the shops still have their lights on. Apparently they have generators.
Unable to solve the mystery, I order and enjoy my food in the darkness, holding my book close enough to the flame to set it on fire. Finished, I retreat to the guesthouse.
I am relieved to see that the lights are on. I go to my room, turn on the fans, open my computer, and start watching The Pink Panther Strikes Again. Darkness. This is getting ridiculous.
I walk downstairs, using the flashlight on my new cell phone.
"What happened?"
"The lights went out."
Clearly, I need to revise my line of questioning.
"Does this happen often?"
"Yes, but no worry. This is a main road, the lights will be back on soon."
And just like that, they are.
The next day at work I find out what happened. Rolling blackouts. Apparently, the people in Phnom Penh are using more energy than the city can sustain. I'm lucky to live in the wealthy area. In other parts of town, the lights go out often and stay out for hours. My supervisor doesn't leave yogurt in the refrigerator.
Remember California in 2000? I think Enron is in Cambodia.
Travel well,
kat
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Saturday, May 30, 2009
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1 COMMENTS:
I like your writing style. I do remember CA back then. I just read your article to a friend who grew up in a third world country (he's now in his 30's); he said it used to happen back then all the time and they used oil lamps with kerosene. Seems like you've got the right tools and attitude.
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